How To Add Freon To Kubota Tractor

Here'south how I added LED lights to my Kubota tractor's ROPS and turned night into day with 360 degree visibility.

Here are the parts and pieces I ordered from Amazon:

• YITAMOTOR LED Light Bar, 14inch 72W
• Nilight 60001F-B Bar 2PCS 18w 4″ LED Flood Lights
• Heavy Duty 14AWG 300W two-Circuit Led Light Bar Wiring Harness
• MUYI 10 Kit 2 Pin Way Waterproof Electric Connector
• xiv Approximate l'FT Wire Copper Clad Unmarried Conductor 6 Primary Colors
• 3/eight″ Split Nylon Wire Loom Flexible Conduit – 25 Feet
• UV Resistant Tie Wraps, xiv″ Long, 100-Pack
• U-Bolt Square Pair Zinc Plated three/8-xvi″ Ten three-1/8″ Ten four X 1-three/4″
• Square Zinc U-Bolt,ii″ ten 5″ with a 5/16″ thread bore
• Stanley N351-500 iv.9″ x three″ Steel Corner Brace

Starting time, y'all need a power source for the lights.  Fortunately, there is frequently one readily available from the piece of work light connexion available on many tractors.  In the case of the Kubota 50 Serial tractors, this connection is found under the left rear tire fender, near the connectedness for the tail lights.

It is simply energized when the kickoff switch is on or the tractor is running.  It is fused at x amps so the combined amperage of your lights should be less than this.  If you need more than this, I'll show you in the next video in this series how to add an additional fuse box for power accessories, which is what I had to exercise when I added my side lights.

Below is a basic wiring diagram for a front light bar and two rear lights powered from the tractor'southward work calorie-free connection.  The two rear lights are wired in parallel.

Below is a wiring diagram for front, side and rear lights, powered past the 6-fuse auxiliary fuse block I installed so that I could feed other accessories and provide more than amps for my piece of work lights.  The 2 side lights are wired in parallel with the forepart light bar so they are turned on with the aforementioned switch.

In the basic work light setup, the work light connection went to my switch box, which is mounted backside my speed range lever.  This box is only a small plastic projection box I had laying around for years.  It is held on using the rear bolt of the speed range lever plate.

The wiring enters the bottom of the box through an existing slot in the speed range lever plate.  You could mount your switches directly on to the speed range lever plate, but I wanted better protection for the switches and wiring.

The wiring leaves the switch box and is protected by iii/8" dissever nylon wire loom tubing, strapped to the ROPS with UV-resistant tie wraps.

The wire loom runs to the backside of the ROPS hinge commodities.  This ensures there is enough slack to permit the ROPS to fold down without stretching the wires. Connections to the lights are fabricated with ii-Pin Waterproof Electrical Connectors I bought on Amazon.

Now to wire all this upwardly, I bought a wiring harness kit from Amazon.  However, I didn't use every bit is.  Instead I cutting it up and used the switches and wires per the diagrams I showed before.  I used the relay that came with the harness in the auxiliary fuse block I added when I added the side lights.

For the front light, I chose a xiv" light bar.  It has a combination of spot low-cal and flood light LEDs and it draws 72 watts or 6 amps at 12 volts.  It produces four,790 lumens, which is very bright.  Finally, it has an IP67 waterproof rating. However, I strongly suggest running a bead of pure silicone caulk effectually the edges of the lens and also where the wire goes into the light.

The side and rear lights are 4" LED light bars with 6 inundation light LEDs and they draw 18W each or 1.5 amps at 12 volts.  Each one produces 1260 lumens and they are also IP67 rated.  Again, I put a dewdrop of silicone caulk effectually the lens and where the wire goes into the light.

The front and rear lights are mounted to the height of the ROPS with ii U-bolts and ii 1" by ane/8" thick steel bar pieces cut to viii.5" long.  The U-bolts are spaced according the mounting requirements of the front low-cal bar. The length of the steel pieces can vary according your needs and choice of lights.  You tin get this bar stock at hardware stores in various lengths.  I drilled holes for the u-bolts and holes on the ends for the lights to adhere to and I used a rotary grinder to round off the edges. Finally, I painted the steel bars black.

Each side low-cal is mounted to the ROPS with two U-bolts – and a 4.9" by 3" corner caryatid.  To protect the ROPS, I added heat shrink tubing to the back of the u-bolts and cutting a piece of safety sheeting to get between the corner brace and the ROPS.

To come across a nighttime fourth dimension demonstration of the lights, picket the video.

Notation: Links to Amazon products are Amazon Associate links that won't cost you lot any extra, but volition assist support my efforts with a pocket-sized commission on qualified products. Thanks for your support!

How To Add Freon To Kubota Tractor,

Source: https://diymyway.net/2019/08/13/kubota-tractor-mod-rops-led-lights/

Posted by: millswhimen.blogspot.com

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